When working with fabrics, weight is one of the most important factors influencing comfort, durability, and overall garment quality. That’s why understanding what is GSM in fabric is essential for brands, designers, and manufacturers when selecting the right material for each product. From T-shirts and activewear to hoodies and outerwear, GSM directly affects how a fabric performs and feels in real use.
1. What Is GSM In Fabrics?
GSM stands for grams per square meter and is a standard measurement used to indicate the weight of a fabric. Simply put, GSM shows how much one square meter of fabric weighs, helping you understand whether a fabric is light, medium, or heavy. The higher the GSM, the thicker and heavier the fabric feels; the lower the GSM, the lighter and more breathable it is. For example, lightweight T-shirts usually have a lower GSM, while hoodies, sweatshirts, or winter garments use fabrics with a higher GSM.
2. How to Measure GSM in Fabrics?
GSM in fabrics is measured by calculating the weight of a specific fabric area and converting it to grams per square meter. In practice, manufacturers usually cut a fabric sample using a standard GSM cutter (often a circular cutter with a fixed area), then weigh the sample on a precision scale. The measured weight is multiplied by a fixed factor to determine the GSM value. This method ensures accurate and consistent results, allowing brands and manufacturers to compare fabric weights, control quality, and maintain consistency across different production batches.
3. Fabric GSM Ranges and Typical Uses
Each product type is typically developed within a specific GSM range to balance comfort, durability, breathability, and structure. The table below breaks down typical GSM ranges by clothing category, linking each GSM level to its most common applications while also highlighting widely used fabric types and blends.
| Clothing Category | Typical GSM Range (by use case) | Common Fabric Types & Blends |
| Activewear | 120-160 GSM: Lightweight training tops, base layers, high-breathability performance wear | Recycled polyester, polyester-spandex, nylon-spandex |
| 180-250 GSM: Standard leggings, fitted active tops, all-season activewear | Interlock knit, double knit, poly-elastane blends | |
| 280-350+ GSM: Cold-weather activewear, compression and supportive garments | Nylon–spandex, high-density performance knits | |
| Underwear & Intimates | 100-150 GSM: “Barely-there,” sheer, or seamless underwear | Cotton jersey, modal, bamboo viscose, microfiber |
| 150-180 GSM: Standard everyday underwear with better opacity and durability | Cotton-elastane, modal-elastane, bamboo-spandex | |
| T-Shirts & Casual Tops | 120-160 GSM: Lightweight summer T-shirts and breathable casual tops | Cotton single jersey, cotton-poly blends |
| 160-200 GSM: Versatile everyday basics with balanced comfort and durability | Combed cotton, organic cotton, cotton-modal | |
| 200+ GSM: Premium, heavyweight, or structured T-shirt styles | Heavy jersey cotton, cotton-elastane | |
| Loungewear & Sleepwear | 120-160 GSM: Summer sleepwear, hot climates, airy and breathable lounge styles | Cotton jersey, bamboo viscose, modal |
| 170-220 GSM: Year-round pajamas and standard cotton sleep sets | Cotton interlock, cotton-modal blends | |
| 220-300+ GSM: Winter sleepwear, thermal sets, cozy lounge pieces | Brushed cotton, thermal knits | |
| Sweatshirts & Hoodies | 280-400+ GSM: Fleece sweatshirts, hoodies, and cold-weather casualwear | Cotton fleece, French terry, cotton-poly blends |
4. How Fabric Weight Impacts Product Performance
Fabric weight directly affects how a garment feels, performs, and lasts in real-life use. From breathability and comfort to durability and structure, GSM plays a key role in determining overall product performance.
- Comfort & Wearability: Fabric weight directly affects how a garment feels on the body. Lightweight fabrics allow more airflow and feel cooler, making them suitable for warm climates or high-movement activities. Heavier fabrics tend to feel warmer and more substantial, which can be desirable for colder conditions or structured garments.
- Breathability & Moisture Management: Lower GSM fabrics generally offer better breathability and faster moisture evaporation, which is especially important for activewear and summer garments. Higher GSM fabrics may retain more heat and moisture, making them better suited for low-intensity use or cooler environments.
- Drape & Garment Structure: GSM plays a key role in how a fabric hangs and holds its shape. Lightweight fabrics create a soft, fluid drape, while heavier fabrics provide more structure and firmness. This directly influences pattern design, fit, and the overall silhouette of a garment.
- Durability: Heavier fabrics often have higher resistance to wear, abrasion, and repeated washing. While lightweight fabrics can still be durable when well-constructed, GSM is an important factor in determining how long a garment will maintain its appearance and performance over time.
- Intended Use & Performance Requirements: Different activities place different demands on fabric weight. High-intensity sports typically require lighter fabrics for mobility and ventilation, while casual wear, uniforms, or outerwear may benefit from heavier fabrics that offer stability and protection.
5. Things to Consider When Deciding GSM in Fabrics
When deciding on the right GSM (grams per square meter) for a fabric, several key factors determine how the finished garment will perform in terms of comfort, durability, and overall functionality. Here are the main considerations:
- End Use and Application: The intended use of the fabric is the primary factor in choosing GSM. Lightweight fabrics (<150 GSM) are ideal for breezy summer shirts, delicate blouses, scarves, and underwear. Medium-weight fabrics (150-350 GSM) are versatile for everyday T-shirts, casual shirts, dresses, and light denim. Heavyweight fabrics (350+ GSM) are best for winter coats, jackets, structured denim, upholstery, and hoodies.
- Seasonality and Climate: GSM should be selected based on the environment where the garment will be worn. Low GSM (100-150) works best for warm climates and summer wear for breathability and sweat-wicking. High GSM (200+ for tops, 350+ for outerwear) is necessary in cold climates to provide insulation. Mid-weight fabrics (150-200 GSM) are ideal for transitional seasons and layering.
- Desired Durability and Structure: Higher GSM generally results in a denser, stronger fabric that resists tearing, pilling, and wear, suitable for garments that need to hold a specific shape, like structured blazers or sturdy workwear. Lower GSM fabrics are softer and lighter but less suitable for high-abrasion applications.
- Fabric Hand Feel and Drape: Low-GSM fabrics drape loosely and feel soft and light, while high-GSM fabrics provide more structure and a stiffer, more tailored feel. The choice of GSM directly affects the comfort and movement of the garment.
- Opacity: Fabric weight influences transparency. Lightweight fabrics with low GSM are often semi-sheer or sheer, while higher GSM fabrics are necessary to create opaque garments such as white T-shirts or dresses.
- Cost and Manufacturing: Higher GSM fabrics typically use more raw material, increasing cost per meter or yard. They may also require different handling during production compared to lightweight fabrics, affecting sewing, cutting, and overall manufacturing efficiency.
6. Thygesen Textile Vietnam – Fabric Selection Consultant and Sourcing
Thygesen Textile Vietnam is a full-package apparel manufacturer based in Vietnam with over 90 years of experience in the textile industry. We serve renowned global fashion and kidswear brands, including Tommy Hilfiger, DKNY, Calvin Klein, Fjällräven, Girlfriend Collective, Ninepine, Boody. With decades of expertise, Thygesen specializes in high-quality production across multiple categories, such as activewear, underwear, loungewear, fashionwear, kidswear, uniform etc.
We provide professional consultation not only on GSM but also on other critical fabric properties, including hand feel, drape, opacity, durability, stretch, and breathability. This guidance ensures that each fabric is perfectly suited to the intended garment category, whether it’s lightweight summer T-shirts, mid-weight activewear, or heavyweight hoodies. With Thygesen’s expertise, brands can confidently choose fabrics that deliver both comfort and performance.
Beyond cutting and sewing, we can source, develop, or customize fabrics according to client specifications with our wide network in Vietnam and global as: Japan, Korea, China, Taiwan, EU etc.
7. FAQ
Does a higher GSM mean better quality?
Not necessarily. GSM only measures weight, not quality. A high-GSM fabric is thicker and heavier, which is great for hoodies, but a low-GSM fabric can be high-quality if it uses premium fibers like Pima cotton for a soft, breathable summer shirt.
Can two fabrics have the same GSM but feel different?
Yes, because the feel depends on the fiber type and weave. For example, a heavy polyester fabric might feel thinner than a cotton fabric of the same GSM because synthetic fibers are denser, or a fuzzy brushed fabric will feel thicker than a smooth one.
Does GSM change after washing?
Yes, GSM usually increases slightly after the first wash. This happens because natural fibers like cotton tend to shrink, making the fabric more compact and increasing its weight per square meter.
Does a higher GSM mean the fabric is more expensive?
Not always. While heavier fabrics use more raw material, price is mostly driven by the fiber quality and construction. A very light, finely woven silk or high-tech performance fabric can be much more expensive than a heavy, basic heavy-weight polyester.
In conclusion, before selecting any fabric, it’s important to understand what GSM is in fabric and why it plays a critical role in determining thickness, durability, and end-use performance. For expert guidance on fabric selection, sourcing, and custom development and apparel manufacturing. Contact Thygesen Textile Vietnam at thygesenapparel.com or email sale@thygesen.com.vn.
